Fuel Tank Rehab
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Fuel Tank Rehab
Cleaning and sealing a stinky, old tank with POR15 products
Interrupt the fuel supply to your car or truck’s engine, and suddenly your vintage ride isn’t fun any more. Instead of the thrill of driving a vintage vehicle, you’re suddenly on the side of the road with the hood up, trying to figure out severe runability issues.
After four or five decades of use and non-use, the old fuel tank can get into pretty bad shape. Pinholes, seam leaks, debris damage, non-functional senders, can spoil the party, not to mention the amount of dirt and crud that can accumulate inside. New tanks are available for most cars, but you can probably save the one you’ve got with POR15’s fuel tank sealing kit. POR15 products are high-quality, easy to use, and directions are simple.
One thing we have to stress is that you need to follow directions closely. This is no place to get in a hurry and cut corners. Follow along and you’ll see where to start in reclaiming an old fuel tank.
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1. Start by removing the tank. This typically involves safely draining the fuel into a container made for storing fuel, disconnecting the send and return lines, the filler tube, the sender connection, and the straps that hold it in. This can be a two-man job. | |
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2. Remove the float. It will be replaced, and we’ll need access to the hole for the job. Set aside the screws and all other fateners, clips, and hardware in container like a freezer storage bag or a Tupperware-type tub with a lid that seals. You don’t want to lose your vintage parts. | |
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3. This is part of the nasty sludge that was in the tank. No wonder we were having fuel flow problems. What a foul mess. | |
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4. With the tank stripped and cleaned, we start the 3-step POR-15 sealing process by adding Marine Clean to a gallon of hot water. Mix one quart of Marine-Clean with a quart of very hot water. All inside surfaces must be cleaned, but because the worst seems to fall to the bottom of the thank, it will probably need extra time. Shake the tank, then move it so the solution contacts different sections of the tank. Cleaning time could be from 2 to 24 hours. Drain, rinse with fresh, hot water, then repeat. After second treatment, the solution should come out clean. Take your time, follow the directions to the letter, and don’t get in a hurry.
5. Follow up the Marine-Clean with Metal-Ready, a non-toxic, non-flammable, non-caustic and biodegradable solution that slightly etches the metal to promote adhesion of the sealer. Pour in the whole container and move the tank every 30 minutes or so until the whole inside surfaced has been treated. Rinse several times with hot water and drain. Now – this is critical – force warm air into the tank until every drop of liquid has dried. The inside will not dry on its own, and the sealer will not stick to liquid. Take your time and do this right. This is no place for shortcuts. |
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6. When the inside of the tank is fully, 100% dry, plug all threaded holes, then pour in the whole can of sealer. It cannot be reused, so there’s no point in trying to save some for another job. “Roll” the tank around so the all inside surfaces get covered. Then drain for at least 30 minutes to make sure there are no pools or puddling inside. Leave the lid off of the can and let the unused sealer harden, then throw it away. The tank must dry for 3-4 days. Maximum cure is reached in 4 days. | |
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7. We gave the outside of our tank a coat of POR15 silver to freshen up the outside. | |
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8. National Parts Depot provided all new parts — sender, hoses, filters, gas cap — for reassembly. We were very happy with the quality, fit and appearance. Inline Tube supplied the new lines. They will put the finishing touches on the fuel tank rehab. | |
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9. The completed job looks and works like new. | |
SOURCES
NPD Florida - www.npdlink.com - (352) 861-8700 (800) 874-7595
Inline Tube - www.inlinetube.com - (586) 532-1338 (800) 385-9452
Last Updated (Wednesday, 16 December 2009 21:05)
